My Drawing Materials

2:35 p.m. William 3 Comments


                                                    Click on the image to watch the video

Hello everyone!

A lot of people ask me about my materials and where to get them, so I decided to give you some Amazon links to facilitate this. You can order them directly by mail, or you can just take notes and get them at your local store.

This is my new Amazon Influencer Storefront, where I post the materials that I´m currently using: 
https://www.amazon.com/shop/fineart-tips

These are some of the materials and tools I prefer and therefore I use, but by no means, I´m saying you need to have them. For example, if the lead holders and leads seem too expensive to you, don´t worry, wooden pencils as well (if they are drawing pencils in the same gradations.)

But having good materials do facilitate things and in some cases, they make a big difference such as on the paper. In my opinion, the best paper I have used for drawing is Fabriano. There are other very good brands such as Arches and Strathmore. However, I wouldn´t use a good quality drawing paper for unmeaningful things or for sketching (it would be a waste). For that, I use much lower grade materials. But if I intend to create a masterpiece, then I do invest in a good paper.


The Tutto3 Mechanical Pencil is the drawing tool I use the most and my favorite one. It has 3 different leads inside that come in 3 different thicknesses and 3 different softnesses, so you get a whole range of possibilities. If you are used to drawing with only one pencil, this tool can bring your art to another level. (Disclaimer: I participated in the development of this tool.)

Click on the image to see it on Amazon:


I love mechanical pencils because they don´t get shorter and shorter, because the leads are easy and fast to sharpen and because I can collect the graphite powder which then I sometimes use for toning. You can switch different gradations of leads in the same holder, but obviously, it is more practical to have the different leads you are using in different holders. And I like to have the holders of different colors so I know at a glance what lead is in which holder (like HB in the black, 2B in the red and 6B in the yellow one). Here are different brands, some may be a little more quality to the feel, but in the end, they all hold the lead!


              


For a lot of my drawings, I use H (or 2H) and 2B leads. With these 2 you can work well. If the subject has some very dark darks then I add a 4B or 6B. And sometimes it is easier to do the lighter shading with a harder one, so we could expand to a 3H and 6H.

(B stands for “black”, since they are softer they paint darker. The bigger the number the softer. They go from B to 6B. And H stands for “hard”, again, the bigger the number, the harder. They go from H to 6H. And in the middle, there is the HB and in between the HB and the B exists an F. "F" stands for "Fine Point". As the "F" is considered a hard lead for drawing, it can keep a fine point for longer than the softer leads.)

I recommend getting the whole set from the same brand as they may vary in hardness from brand to brand and that will throw you off. Recomended brands: Turquoise (by Standford), Faber-Castell and Staedtler.

               

If you get a lead holder you will need a pointer. The barrel type is fast and efficient. The hand-held one also works well and is very inexpensive.

     

Mechanical pencils with fine leads like 0.7mm, 0.5mm or even finer 0.35mm are very useful for precision drawing. I love them and lately have been using them for general drawing. I love the feel of the heavy, high-quality Rotring brand, but they are a bit expensive. The 800 series is great because the metal tip is retractable and is not exposed when not in use, like when it is in your pocket. Rotring also has an economy line (the 300s) and they are actually great. Nowadays I'm starting almost all my drawings and tutorials with the 0.7mm which is the first one of the list below. I’m giving the link for those, and for other options which work practically the same.

        

Large surfaces can be smudged with a brush (preferably a softer one such as the ones for acrylic paint) or for a more even finish, with a chamois. For smaller areas there are the stumps and tortillions (generally speaking the tortillions are a little harder and smaller).

              

Following are great quality charcoal pencils (Primo). I use these a lot to render the very dark blacks when drawing in combination with graphite. And on toned paper, I use the white for the lights.



If you want to draw with felt pens, these sets which includes 4 or 5 different caliber fine markers is very handy!

   

I like these markers, each comes with a dual brush and fine tip. They are available in different types of sets, such as primary colors, skin tones, and if you want the whole thing, here it is as well!

       

If you are going to draw with markers, it is better to use a bleed-proof paper, which doesn’t wear if you go over it a few times, like the following:

   

And finally, when your drawings are finished (especially charcoal, pastel and pencil drawings) you should fix them so that it doesn't get smudged. There are basically 2 types: "Working fixatives" fixes the material so it doesn't smudge as much, but it lets you keep working on it. And "final fixatives for when you completed the drawing. Both come glossy or matte (opaque). I generally prefer matte.

My favorite is Fabriano, but there are many good brands, such as Arches and Canson. 

   

It is key to have a kneaded eraser (my best allay!) and a pencil eraser like the Magic Rub for erasing stronger marks. For fine detail the Tombow Mono Zero is great.


         


I hope this information is useful to you.

Good drawing!!

Leonardo

3 comentarios:

  1. I would like to see more watercolour painting, as I do watercolours. Thank you.

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  2. Cleaning oil paintings is a risky task. If done incorrectly, you risk ruining an expensive piece of artwork that may not be restored again. It is important to use the proper cleaning solutions and cleaning equipment to ensure the safety of your abstract canvas. Pascal Robaglia Some things you will need to get an oil painting cleaned are varnish remover, emulsion solution, varnish, Q-tips and cotton swabs, a neutralizer and gloves to protect your hands from chemicals.

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